Drifting Isn't Just Stopping: Why We Built a Dedicated Pro-Drift Brake System
If you build drift cars, you know the frustration of the rear brake setup. A standard Big Brake Kit (BBK) is designed for grip racing—linear stopping power, not the instant locking required to initiate a slide.
To get a functional hydro-handbrake, most builders resort to the "Dual Caliper" method: welding heavy brackets onto the knuckle to mount a second, often cheap, caliper. The result? Massive unsprung weight, complex plumbing, and often, a spongy pedal.
We engineered a solution to eliminate the bracket entirely. The TTSPORT Drift-Racing DR4+2 is the exact pro-level technology that recently powered driver Wang Qi to the top of the podium at the Mongolia International Cup.
The Game Changer: DR4+2 Dual-Circuit Technology
The core of our drift system is the Rear DR4+2 Caliper. It solves the "bulky bracket" problem by integrating two completely independent hydraulic systems into a single, lightweight monoblock body.
How It Works:
This is not just a caliper with two inputs; it is a Dual-Circuit System. Inside the forged aluminum body, the pistons are separated into two isolated groups:
- Circuit A (Hydro Handbrake): Dedicated pistons connected directly to your hydraulic lever. When you pull the handle, these pistons lock the rotor instantly.
- Circuit B (Foot Brake): Dedicated pistons connected to your pedal box or master cylinder. This allows you to trail-brake and modulate angle with your foot.
The Result? Zero cross-talk. Pulling the handbrake does not push back on the brake pedal. You get a rock-solid foot pedal and an aggressive, snappy handbrake, all in a package that weighs significantly less than a dual-caliper setup.
The Anchor: Front DR6 Caliper
To balance the rear locking capabilities, the front uses our DR6 6-Piston Monoblock Caliper. Drifting puts unique thermal stress on front brakes due to constant left-foot braking to manage weight transfer. The DR6 features optimized ventilation and stainless steel pistons to prevent fluid boiling during tandem battles.
Battle-Tested Feedback
We didn't just build this in a lab. After 1,000+ hours of track abuse by pro teams, the feedback is consistent:
"The handbrake sticks like a magnet. There is zero pull on the foot pedal, zero fade, and zero wobble. It allows you to literally paint your drift arcs with precision."
Supported Chassis:
We offer bolt-on brackets for the most popular drift platforms, including:
- Nissan Silvia (S13/S14/S15)
- Toyota 86 / Subaru BRZ / FR-S
- BMW 3-Series (E36/E46/E90)
- Lexus IS Series (IS200/IS300/IS250)
Drift Setup FAQ
1. Do I need a special master cylinder for the handbrake?
For the DR4+2 rear caliper, we generally recommend a 0.625" or 0.75" master cylinder on your hydro handbrake assembly. This pairs perfectly with the piston volume of the handbrake circuit to provide a "snappy" lock-up with minimal lever travel.
2. How hard is it to bleed the system?
It is very straightforward. Because the circuits are isolated, the caliper features four bleed nipples (two for each circuit). You bleed the foot brake circuit and the handbrake circuit independently, just like you would on two separate cars.
3. What wheel size is required?
Drift cars typically run smaller wheels for cheaper tires and better sidewall flex. The DR4+2 and DR6 kits are compact monoblock designs engineered to clear most 17-inch and 18-inch motorsport wheels. As always, please use our fitment template to confirm clearance.
Stop Compromising. Start Drifting.
Ditch the heavy brackets and spongy pedals. Get the integrated, pro-level solution that drift builds have been missing.